|A||Autumn Term 2018-19|
Fashion as a cultural phenomenon with its rapid cycles of vestimentary changes creates an elastic, man-made concept of an eternal now time instead of a divinely appointed time. Scholars regard the inception of fashion to have taken place in the later part of the fourteenth-century in Europe’s and Asia’s prominent urban centers. Clothes are as central to human experience as food. They not only protect our bodies from the elements, but also constitute our sense of self. They can project our financial resources and can register our aesthetic tastes or our abstention from these choices. They can signal our affiliation to certain groups, localities and sexual identity, yet also our striving to be recognized as distinctive. Clothes indeed area highly personal legacy of our own biographies and thereby give access to memory. Not surprisingly, scholars regard wardrobes as “‘psychic landscapes’ and storehouses of fantasies and anxieties, as well as accommodations to expectations of what a person ought to look and be like” (Ulinka Rublack). Yet, these experiments of self are a process of negotiation which is concurrently enabled and limited by larger socio-economic processes. These determine two key factors: our budget and what is for sale in the shops.
Fashion studies and dress histories constitute buoyant areas of academic research across disciplines such as history, art history, literature studies, sociology, and anthropology. Indeed, a considerable number of Europe’s most eminent thinkers engaged with fashion as a cultural form such as Friedrich Nietzsche, Georg Simmel, Walter Benjamin, Theodore W. Adorno, Roland Barthes and Pierre Bourdieu. With visual source material such as painting, sculpture and photography at the heart of its discipline, art history is a core discipline for the study of past and present fashion cultures as art historian Anne Hollander states: “Clothes make, not the man but the image of man-and they make it in a steady, reciprocal accord with the way artists make, not lifeless effigies but vital representations.” This module is organized around a range of key conceptual approaches to the study of fashion in the humanities through the lens of eight selected case studies which will anchor the larger theoretical issues in the close study of visual source material such as visual representations and surviving artifacts of clothing. The wide time frame will not only be of interest to students with different specializations, but will also enable a cross-referential and cross-media investigation of cultural concepts and practices across different historical clothing communities ranging from the sixteenth-century Low Countries and Spain to the so-called “Art Deco” era of the 1920s and 1930s.
Note: This module is a sequence to the stage 3, undergraduate module “Interwoven: Fashion and Clothing Communities in art history” at postgraduate level with a more advanced level of new conceptual challenges and the study of novel primary material.
By the end of the module, you should have acquired:
A heightened ability to analyse the medium-specific issues of representing dress and textiles and visual material which transcends the pictorial.
|Task||Length||% of module mark|
|Task||Length||% of module mark|
Written mark and comments on summative assessment will be distributed to students in week 6 of the term in which the assessed work was submitted.
Cumming, Valerie Understanding Fashion History (London, 2004)
de la Haye, Amy and Elizabeth Wilson Defining Dress: Dress as object, meaning and identity (Manchester, 1999)
Küchler, Susanne and Daniel Miller Clothing as Material Culture (Oxford, 2005)
Breward, Christopher and Caroline Evan Fashion and Modernity (Oxford, 2004)
Carlyle, Thomas Sartor Resartus (London, 1838)
Carter, Michael Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes (Oxford, 2003)
Steele, Valerie Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power (Oxford, 1996)
Coronavirus (COVID-19): changes to courses
The 2020/21 academic year will start in September. We aim to deliver as much face-to-face teaching as we can, supported by high quality online alternatives where we must.
Find details of the measures we're planning to protect our community.